Oh this looks so so good!!
And I have to ask how you got such a lovely blend between the green and the yellow on that spherical form on his left upper arm? It looks so pretty.
Thanks very much! 🙂
Do you mean the fade of the yellow to the darker edges? If so, that was purely from pre-shading with the airbrush. I primed everything with Vallejo grey primer through the airbrush, then put black primer on the edges of the armor and everywhere that needed shading. Then I just put the base colors of red and yellow on with the airbrush. This was one of the first models I did with the airbrush, so there are bits I wish I could have done a bit better but I’m happy with other parts 🙂
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uuuuuuugh, cannot even articulate how much I wish I could paint like this. These look STUNNING. I love their colour schemes.
So so good.
Aw thanks! This was my first time trying edge highlighting (on the blue/purple guy) and I really like how the Nurgle ones turned out with the splotchy flesh color (seriously, Plague Marines are SO easy to paint: http://tabletopstandard.com/2013/08/05/how-to-paint-a-plague-marine-quickly/). I wish I’d kept records on these to list what colors I used, but I just picked various reds for the Khorne ones, various blues and greens (then purples) for the one guy, and a variety of flesh & light greens/yellows for the other two.
Oh yes,. these are much clearer photos than last I saw this little guy! Still looking very impressive 🙂
May I ask, Vallejo Dead White – is that what you’ve used to get the bone colour? I’m still on the hunt for a nice bone highlight and this skeleton looks perfect!! 🙂
Aw thanks! 🙂 Dead White is a pure white, P3 ‘Jack Bone was the base for the bony bits, purely because it’s in the ‘official’ color set for Cryx and the other Cryx models I’m doing use the same color. Then I did a wash of Sepia Wash from my homemade washes (see the post I did on that), then a drybrush of the ‘Jack Bone, then a drybrush of ‘Jack Bone with an equal amount of Vallejo Dead White. Then I did a step or two of increasingly light drybrushing as I mixed in more of the Dead White and finally a very light drybrush of Dead White. It sounds like more work than it is, I basically used a couple drops of the bone color and a couple drops of white for all the drybrushing.
Thankyou so much for the description. I already have jack bone but doesnt quite give the effect I want on its own. Might get a dead white next purchase 🙂 and you make your own washes?? How cool!
Yeah any pure white will work to add to the bone colors for extra highlight. Just mix in more and more as you need it for drybrushing or edge highlighting or whatever you’re doing. Also see the front page of the site and scroll down to see the post I did on make your own washes. Lester Burley has a Youtube video and a page on his site showing how it’s done. It’s great to make a bottle at a time, or whole jar of wash at a time if you want to play around with dip-washing.
Oh thankyou so much! I will have a look 🙂
Saw your post on reddit, read your post here. Very interesting!
Thanks! Hello to Reddit 🙂 I hope you like the other posts on the site!
Hahaha, the ever involved felines!! They are my dogs have cast more than a few stray hairs onto my paint jobs. hahaha
Thankfully no hair in the paint (yet!)…in the the food is fine, just not on the models! 🙂
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I’m amazed that you’re able to paint up groups of minis like this and keep them all at such a high quality paint job! Very jealous!
I think if I was to try to paint more than one at a time they’d look like they were dipped in a bucket hehe.
Thanks 🙂 The airbrush priming and highlighting really helps but after that I’d say I only spent a few hours total on these guys doing the reds, whites and details like the stripes, metal bits, etc. It only feels like a couple of hours but it was probably a bit more. These are my first orcs so I did the timesaving orc skin method of ‘paint yellow, wash with green’ which works really nicely and saved tons of time over washing and highlighting.
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Love it! Really interesting methods! And I appreciate the comparison photos of the primers I hasn’t quite realised how much it lights up the model! Lovely!
Yeah the pre-shading (aka zenithal highlighting) really really helps – not only does it speed things up enormously (I there are NO washes, drybrushing or highlights on the skin areas at all) it makes things look realistic from the very start. The only place I messed up a bit is that I didn’t put enough gray on the skin areas, and putting yellow over black resulted in…just black, really. But I was able to cover up much of that over-darkness with the mud texture so it came out fine in the end. Even before putting the pigments on, when you put the team on the table you’re looking down at them from 45 to 60 degrees so all those black areas aren’t seen anyway, until you pick them up.
I’ll try to do a post purely on zenithal highlighting, but there’s a lot of blog posts out there that cover it already, just google it. You can do it with cans pretty easily (just prime the whole thing in black, then spray from the top at a 45 degree angle all around, and bam, instant shading).
Thanks for posting these! I’m always interested in alternative, easy to store gaming table covers. I’m using carpet tiles at the moment and was also trying to break up the monotonous pattern, using patches of green flock.
Hey, you’re welcome! 🙂 I got the felt from ebay, from people who sell it by the yard/meter. Trimmed them to fit and they work great. They fold up really well, I don’t bother rolling them, and finally got around to painting them. At first I was VERY ‘meh’ on them, especially the space one, but they work alright. I think the desert one looks the best and I’ll widen out the spots a bit and try larger spots with more spacing on the reverse side. Then I’ll probably do the same thing for the green felt I have. I think they’ll look even better on a 4×6 table, the picture is from a Kill Team game so that’s only a 4×4 table.
Amazing personalised gifts!
That is pretty cool. Jervis is a top bloke.
I’ve heard this about him quite a bit 🙂 I’m heading to Warhammer World finally this Friday, hopefully I’ll bump into him!
You never know, you might even catch him in Bugmans.
Thanks for reminding me about Reaper Miniatures (I looked at them a while back but as they’re in the US and I’m in the UK I discounted them at first) – with models like these I should be looking closer! 🙂
Yeah I’m surprised at how nice the Reaper Bones are actually. They are hard to get in the UK but I’ll bet you can find many being sold from people who bought into the Bones Kickstarter. There’s another Kickstarter they’re doing for more Bones stuff, it ends in a few days actually!
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Thank you very much for the comparation.
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That is a beautiful tank. Thanks for the zoomed in shots. You put a lot of work into this beaut! Love the weathering and effects.
Hey, thanks very much! 🙂
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Champ Industries make very nice PLASTIC ship decking type bases. They are cheap and nice, and glue with plastic glue.
Cool! Thanks for that, will check them out for sure! 🙂
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This looks nice! Could we perhaps get a few shots of the binding location itself? I can’t quite mentally picture how you’ve got them smooshed/stacked in there! I’d be worried this would pull out the binding, since there isn’t really a gap between the fabric and the hardback. I assume this isn’t the case?
Sorry for the very late reply! Basically I just crammed in the ribbons with a fork handle or a popsicle stick, the bind is fine and book binding glue is really really strong stuff 🙂
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Top notch work on this. And the pics looks good enough that I could do this on my own. But one question. Why bother magnetizing it to the base? Do the 2 builds require different leg positions?
Actually a good question! For me personally it’s partly for storage, and in 6th edition an exploded walker would leave a crater or debris on the battlefield. This isn’t the case in 7th edition any more but it still gives an option for the model owner.
Not really different leg positions, but I did this for when I did my own Maulerfiend/Forgfiend because when it got destroyed the base acts as its own exploded marker 🙂
Sorry for the very late reply!
Thanks for the answer. Follow up question being, how do you paint all the magnetized bits? Do you use a jig or something to hold them?
Nope, no jig, just prime & paint separately and when they’re laid down just keep them a few inches from each other so they don’t jump away 🙂
That’s the problem with the ghost tints, they do not show up very well on black so you a really have to go with a gray basecoat. Spray shadows black, spray OSL white or better yet, light gray. Some of them do not go very well with white either. My red blood is more orange than anything. They are also VERY shiny. Do not use the satin varnish either, it’s very shiny as well.
Here is an example I did. Preshaded and I avoided the red blood ghost tint altogether and just used a light coat of nebula red came out much nicer. I did the hair with blue, the gun and agonizer with green and the tabard with purple ghost tint.
Oh yeah I know the candies don’t show over black, but the blue highlights on black is the look I was going for with my army. I wouldn’t say it’s a problem really, it’s just how candies work. Your model looks really good!
I’m interested in the airbrushing wargaming miniatures class on the 23rd Nov but when I click on the link there are no details of the course. There is however a 2 day course on the 31st Oct, is this the same course?
Hi Devin, yes, this is the same course, I just hadn’t updated the link yet 🙂
You mentioned in this video that you were spraying at 25 to 30 psi. Yet when I attended your excellent airbrush training course the other weekend we were spraying at 10 psi practically the whole time regardless of whether we were painting or priming.
What’s the thinking there please and what difference does different psi make?
Great question! 🙂 basically every artist has their own way of doing things, I prefer to spray basecoats and unthinned primers at a higher pressure to make sure they get everywhere they need to be, especially with fully assembled models. This does take some care so you don’t get too much paint in one area but I keep turning the model and come back to catch any missed spots to make sure there’s full coverage everywhere. It’s just a different way, you develop your own way to get things done like with any other task or job. The trick is to not go too far down the wrong road so you have to un-learn bad habits!
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Huh. Isn’t that Ork sprue from Assault on black reach?
I assume you guys picked up one of the flyers, is there any way you can upload a higher resolution scan of those flyers? It’s hard to read some of the text zoomed in.
Sure! We’ve updated the post (see the links under the first flyer images) but you can click here: http://i.imgur.com/H5tXbhq.jpg and http://i.imgur.com/FN2mU5T.jpg 🙂
That’s perfect, thankyou. This is exciting stuff indeed. I now have an excuse to get an Ork army started later this year, especially since my brother and I want to give classic Gorkamorka a shot. I could have a mob with the original models without going to Ebay, lol!
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The Orbital is a fantastic of terrain! I use it in every game, even if we haven’t played the specific szenarios once.
It is really cool, and it was great to see the ‘full size’ versions on the huge New Orleans class strike carrier at Salute!
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